An interesting case, GMC Canyon 09 Extended.

[filadelfiva]

BSA8100, Amp'd 8" tube.

This is the third vehicle that I have had this tube in.
The first time I had it "professionally" done, and they did it wrong. Only connecting a single speaker, and not removing the Auto-Turn On Jumper. (kept killing my battery)
I am no stranger to power or electronics, and this is the first time I have had a kind of trouble I couldn't resolve on my own.

I currently have the tube connected directly to Battery +, with an inline fuse, using sufficient gauge wiring and fuse.
I am pulling left and right High Level inputs of my left and right rear speakers.
The Canyon does not have a standard accessory switch power source, for this I have run a wire to the positive terminal of my power windows in the under-hood fuse box.
All accessories receive power when key is at Accessory On, or at Run. Power to accessories remains on after the key is removes until a door is opened.

The interesting case:
I have the tube mounted vertically between the rear seats (after removing the rear mid-seat console/cup holders), I have made a custom base that gives good clearance to the sub and the vent.

Upon initial install the unit did not turn on. No LED, no sound.
I removed the harness and checked all the leads with a multimeter.
Speakers were giving voltage, power from battery to ground was just barely under 12 volts. Power for auto-on the same. checked impedance along speaker tethers, they were good. Fuses good.
As far as I can tell all connections A-Okay.
So I took off the back panel of the sub, peaked inside to see if anything seemed amiss. All looked good to the naked eye. Sealed it back up.
Reconnected the harness and LED on, Power good, sound good, proper phase, good stuff. Makes my windows shake.

THEN, I disconnected the harness to make some adjustments to the mounting straps, upon reconnecting, no LED, no power. It has stayed thus.

I believe it is internal, but I cant tell. tomorrow i will open up the back panel again and check internals with my multimeter, see if i can find a lose connection.
Else wise, could the vertical mounting be an issue?
Have I missed something?
If the internal amp has simply given up, can it be replaced?
<Insert other relevant question here.>

All input is welcome.

-Rab

[heavyduty]

Originally Posted by filadelfiva

BSA8100, Amp'd 8" tube.

This is the third vehicle that I have had this tube in.
The first time I had it "professionally" done, and they did it wrong. Only connecting a single speaker, and not removing the Auto-Turn On Jumper. (kept killing my battery)
I am no stranger to power or electronics, and this is the first time I have had a kind of trouble I couldn't resolve on my own.

I currently have the tube connected directly to Battery +, with an inline fuse, using sufficient gauge wiring and fuse.
I am pulling left and right High Level inputs of my left and right rear speakers.
The Canyon does not have a standard accessory switch power source, for this I have run a wire to the positive terminal of my power windows in the under-hood fuse box.
All accessories receive power when key is at Accessory On, or at Run. Power to accessories remains on after the key is removes until a door is opened.

The interesting case:
I have the tube mounted vertically between the rear seats (after removing the rear mid-seat console/cup holders), I have made a custom base that gives good clearance to the sub and the vent.

Upon initial install the unit did not turn on. No LED, no sound.
I removed the harness and checked all the leads with a multimeter.
Speakers were giving voltage, power from battery to ground was just barely under 12 volts. Power for auto-on the same. checked impedance along speaker tethers, they were good. Fuses good.
As far as I can tell all connections A-Okay.
So I took off the back panel of the sub, peaked inside to see if anything seemed amiss. All looked good to the naked eye. Sealed it back up.
Reconnected the harness and LED on, Power good, sound good, proper phase, good stuff. Makes my windows shake.

THEN, I disconnected the harness to make some adjustments to the mounting straps, upon reconnecting, no LED, no power. It has stayed thus.

I believe it is internal, but I cant tell. tomorrow i will open up the back panel again and check internals with my multimeter, see if i can find a lose connection.
Else wise, could the vertical mounting be an issue?
Have I missed something?
If the internal amp has simply given up, can it be replaced?
<Insert other relevant question here.>

All input is welcome.

-Rab

No, the issue is not with the vertical mounting of the Tube. As you do have voltage present at the harness, it does sound as if the problem is internal. When you remove the amplifier you will want to check how rigid the molex connector is on the board. This may be simply a loose fastener causing the molex connector to move or flex on the board, which does not allow for the proper or full connection.

Yes, the amplifier can be replaced. Just give Customer Service a call at 1-800-THE-TUBE to discuss your options.

[filadelfiva]

So definitely internal.
Checked impedance from the molex solder points on the PCB to the whip tails from the wiring harness (i have quick connects between most of my trucks internal wiring and the harness whips), all connections good.

Rechecked the harness voltages while connected to the truck, but disconnected from the tube, still have a constant 11.6v from both the constant power, and 'acc-switch' wire when ignition is at ACC.

When i connect the harness to the tube and check the voltages at the solder points behind the PCB molex however, i find that i am receiving about 0.33v.

Took another look over the PCBs, no obvious solder breaks, wiggled bits to see if the solder points were solid, seemed good, no burnt resistors capacitors etc.

The thing that is bothering me about this, was that it has gone from working, to not working, to working, to not working, with no gradual transition between these states. I have the feeling that it should be a small fix if the cause can be found.

-Rab

[filadelfiva]

Originally Posted by filadelfiva

When i connect the harness to the tube and check the voltages at the solder points behind the PCB molex however, i find that i am receiving about 0.33v.

I said this improperly. It should read,

"Prior to connecting the harness to the tube I have a voltage difference of 11.6v, after connecting I have a voltage difference of .33v."

Which i believe implies a short within the board, as the unit is not on and there is a reduced resistance between the 12v constant and GND causing a voltage drop. Yes?

-Rab