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-   -   sub turning off on low volume, driving me insane (http://www.bazooka.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8306)

lipw87 04-20-2013 05:49 PM

sub turning off on low volume, driving me insane
 
i've read a few threads but the solutions don't apply to me. i have a 10" amplified bazooka. have the orange remote wire connected to my deck (aftermarket). using RCA's. there's a switch on the back of the bazooka and i've tried switching up/down with no luck... the sub only engages when i have my volume loud. i've pulled the yellow/brown connect and it completely cuts my sub out even if i turn it up loud.

is there a solution to this?:(

heavyduty 04-21-2013 01:59 PM

Re: sub turning off on low volume, driving me insane
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by lipw87 (Post 34385)
i've read a few threads but the solutions don't apply to me. i have a 10" amplified bazooka. have the orange remote wire connected to my deck (aftermarket). using RCA's. there's a switch on the back of the bazooka and i've tried switching up/down with no luck... the sub only engages when i have my volume loud. i've pulled the yellow/brown connect and it completely cuts my sub out even if i turn it up loud.

is there a solution to this?:(

If you are using the Remote turn-On Loop, the orange remote wire of the Tube should not be connected and vice versa (the orange remote wire of the Tube connected, disconnect the Remote Turn-On Loop).

With the turn-on loop disconnected, where do you have the orange remote wire connected at the headunit?

Noel256 05-03-2013 03:07 PM

Re: sub turning off on low volume, driving me insane
 
I got the same problem..

Bought a new Pioneer AVS X3500bhs and a 8 inch powered bazooka.

My bad, I soldered the blue/white remote wire from pioneer to Orange of bazooka but forgot (didn't really know with all the other crap I had to install) to remove the Yellow/Brown loop. Fired up the head unit and the Bazooka would turn off sometimes, then I realized I had to remove the loop. Turned off everything, removed loop, fired up head unit again (orange wire was always connected to blue) but the Bazooka wouldn't turn on. Reset, replug bazooka harness - nothing. Cut the freaking orange wire and replaced loop. Works but with the fustrating low volume crap..

So I thought I messed up something by having the orange wired with the loop on. My bad for not knowing but I do this about once every ten years and at the same time installing camera, microphone, sub, head unit all after work..

Maybe it's the head unit but I doubt it, next I'm gonna try jumping the red power to the orange to see if amp turns on, then maybe the blue remote wire is bad but I soldered everything..

askinnyllama 05-12-2013 04:29 AM

Re: sub turning off on low volume, driving me insane
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by heavyduty (Post 34387)
If you are using the Remote turn-On Loop, the orange remote wire of the Tube should not be connected and vice versa (the orange remote wire of the Tube connected, disconnect the Remote Turn-On Loop).

With the turn-on loop disconnected, where do you have the orange remote wire connected at the headunit?

I have the same problem. Bought a BTA10100 with the F.A.S.T. connect harness. I'm feeding the audio signal via the low level RCAs. The power wire is spliced into the same 12 volt wire powering my aftermarket deck. The ground wire is wired to ground somewhere in the trunk. The "blue/white" power accessory wire of the harness (which I assume is the orange remote wire at the sub) is spliced to the power antenna wire of my deck. The weird thing is when I have my key at the ACC position, the sub is constantly/continuously on no matter what the volume is. Once I turn the key to the ON position, the sub usually shuts off if the volume isn't loud enough. For instance, after changing songs the sub shuts off, and it takes 3-5 seconds of music playing to trigger the sub to turn back on again. If I turn the car off and switch the key back to ACC, the sub goes on permanently again. This is all with that orange loop connected. If I remove it, the ACC position works as permanent on, but in the ON position the sub does not turn on at any volume level.

Anyone have any advice to offer? I think maybe the power antenna wire from my deck isn't what I was supposed to splice the blue/white wire into. Would it work if I spliced both the red power wire and the blue/white power accessory wire to the power wire for my deck? Any help would be appreciated.

heavyduty 05-13-2013 02:30 PM

Re: sub turning off on low volume, driving me insane
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by askinnyllama (Post 34418)
I have the same problem. Bought a BTA10100 with the F.A.S.T. connect harness. I'm feeding the audio signal via the low level RCAs. The power wire is spliced into the same 12 volt wire powering my aftermarket deck. The ground wire is wired to ground somewhere in the trunk. The "blue/white" power accessory wire of the harness (which I assume is the orange remote wire at the sub) is spliced to the power antenna wire of my deck. The weird thing is when I have my key at the ACC position, the sub is constantly/continuously on no matter what the volume is. Once I turn the key to the ON position, the sub usually shuts off if the volume isn't loud enough. For instance, after changing songs the sub shuts off, and it takes 3-5 seconds of music playing to trigger the sub to turn back on again. If I turn the car off and switch the key back to ACC, the sub goes on permanently again. This is all with that orange loop connected. If I remove it, the ACC position works as permanent on, but in the ON position the sub does not turn on at any volume level.

Anyone have any advice to offer? I think maybe the power antenna wire from my deck isn't what I was supposed to splice the blue/white wire into. Would it work if I spliced both the red power wire and the blue/white power accessory wire to the power wire for my deck? Any help would be appreciated.

Remove the remote turn-on loop. Connect the blue/white wire of the Tube to the constant power wire of the headunit or the switched +12v. Keep in mind, the blue/white wire is the connection that actually turns the Tube "on." Connecting the constant power and remote turn-on wire to the same source will not be a problem.


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