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-   -   Blown amp? (http://www.bazooka.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5117)

Patentpending 07-15-2008 09:00 PM

Blown amp?
 
I purchased a used Bazooka amplified bass tube a little over a year ago. It has worked well up until yesterday. Yesterday I noticed that I had no bass and the LED on the amplifier was off. I checked for power at the power cables to the tube with a multimeter and there was power. I then took off the fuse located ON the built in amplifier and found that I also had 12 volts there. I checked the remote turnon and everything was in order there also. My best guess is that the amplifier is blown but I was hoping someone could help me out and tell me if there are any other things that could cause this loss of power. Since I purchased the tube USED I don't think I'll be able to send it in for warranty repair either, and to be completely honest it's not worth 60 buvks plus shipping to get it fixed, I'd rather spend 150-200 bucks and get a used amp and 2 12 inch subs in a box. However if there are any things I can do to check/repair the problem I would like to do that.

rainmanspl 07-15-2008 09:08 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
If there is power, remote, and a good ground, you should have an operational unit. Move (wiggle) the connector on the tube. It may have lost connection due to moisture, corrosion, or loose solder joint.:)47
And welcome to the Bazooka forum.

Patentpending 07-15-2008 10:04 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
The ground is good, I had problems with the power terminals before and had to re-solder them on, but I had constant power to the fuse on the amp while they were hooked up and no LED and no bass. If the power terminals were hooked up bad I wouldn't have power to that fuse correct?

Patentpending 07-15-2008 10:07 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
Also, I had the tube hooked up at Best Buy after I bought it and the guy there did a horrible splice job and he actually hooked the inputs in at the rear deck speakers and left a long wire hanging down from the deck speaker in the trunk down to the sub with several feet of slack in it too. It worked, but by no means did i get optimal sound out of it.

Patentpending 07-15-2008 10:09 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
Also, I can't figure out how to edit posts? I am currenty using stock speakers(not too bad for what they are) and a Dual XHD6425 headunit

rainmanspl 07-15-2008 10:15 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Patentpending (Post 23937)
The ground is good, I had problems with the power terminals before and had to re-solder them on, but I had constant power to the fuse on the amp while they were hooked up and no LED and no bass. If the power terminals were hooked up bad I wouldn't have power to that fuse correct?

I'm sorry. Please let me clarify. I was refering to the connector that plugs into the tube. My bad.:o

rainmanspl 07-15-2008 10:19 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
There is normally an edit button in the bottom right of the post. I believe, however, it only allows you 1 minute to edit.

Patentpending 07-15-2008 10:43 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
Yes, there is a ground and a positive terminal on the tube, with blade type connectors. Both the blades which are soldered to the board came loose and were causing it to randomly lose power so I resoldered those and they worked fine after that. I guess what i am asking is:

If there is power to the fuse on the amp, then the power connections are fine correct?

rainmanspl 07-15-2008 11:39 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
There is power at the plug that then runs to the fuse then out the fuse through a diode (to protect against reversed polarity) then to the power supply.
Here's a thought. Check the power from the fuse leg to the diode. Then check the diode. If both are fine, consider removing the amp and use a piece of 1/2 in MDF to seal the back of the tube. Power the sub with an external amp that has 100 - 200watts RMS output. It may surprise you.:)47

rainmanspl 07-15-2008 11:51 PM

Re: Blown amp?
 
Yes that is correct. However the power must exit the fuse, go through a diode, and provide source to the amp's power supply. A failed solder joint, connection or component between the fuse and power supply could render the unit inoperable. If you find all is functional there, you might consider powering the sub with an external amplifier. One with 100 - 150 watts RMS would surprise you with the performance. All you have to do is remove the amp from the tube and seal the back of it with 1/2 in MDF and a quality adhesive sealant.


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